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June 28, 2006
Our departure from Mazatlan was delayed, by us, so that we could watch the OSU Beaver’s baseball team play the final game in the Baseball College World Series. We were well rewarded by them winning the 2006 College World Series. Our departure from the El Cid Marina was timed to coincide with the 0920 forty-minute break taken by the El Cid Dredge. OCH decided to have a minor drive train problem and a tempermental auto steering system, just to make leaving a bit of a challenge. Once out of the harbor we were greeted with calm seas and warm weather. The highlight of the day was Ralph’s hooking and landing this beautiful forty-three inch Dorado. It was processed and safely stored within minutes. Mother Nature entertained us at sunset by painting the huge fluffy white clouds in a pink sky over the mainland. The night was dark with stars above and an amazing distant light show as a thunderstorms passed over the mainland toward the open waters of the Sea of Cortez. June 29, 2006
We trolled our fishing lines all day and could not entice a nibble from any of the fish that might have been in immediate vicinity. Our biggest problem was to keep the "Booby birds" grabbing a lure being pulled behind the boat. A tired sea bird joined us today. He was welcome until he began pecking at the wiring on our running lights. He wouldn’t leave but he did move to the spreaders. June 30, 2006 With daylight came our first glimpse of the east coast of the Baja and the anchorage of Baja Agua Verde. It was difficult to know which way to look, east to the beautiful sunrise behind us or west to the beauty of our new adventure. Before we can rest the boat must be cleaned. That sea bird spent the night way up on the spreaders creating a real mess!
Agua Verde is a
beautiful anchorage. This is such an unusual landscape; the
desert-mountains come right down to the sea. We took a swim in the
beautiful clear turquoise water.
July 1, 2006 Continuing up the Baja coast today we encountered a pod of ten to twelve of Pilot whales. We decided to alter course to avoid going through in the middle of the whales. It is always such fun to see marine mammals.
We had a decision
to make on this leg of the route. We either had to pick our way
through 3 Island to a channel to Puerto Escondido or go around these and
one other larger Island and then go south a few miles to reach Puerto
Escondido. Since we have quite a bit of experience in British
Columbia of working our way among rocks and tight channels we decided to
take the shorter way. Once we picked our way between the islands
we had a nice channel with the Baja peninsula to port and an Island to
starbord. We had one more challenge before entering the anchorage
at Puerto Escondido. There is a narrow and shallow section, near
where a marina is to be built someday. All clear through that part
and now, before choosing a
mooring buoy, we stopped to fuel OCH at their very contemporary fuel
dock. The boat is very warm! The cabin temperature stayed at 99
degrees well into the night. Puerto Escondido is a lovely anchorage. Here the spectacular “Sierra La Giganta Mountains”, that form the backbone of the Baja, come right down to the Sea.
We arrived her expecting to find three couples from Long Beach, California anchored. However we just learned they are in Bahia Concepcion. With their encouragement, by email, we decided to continue North in hopes of celebrating the Forth of July with them.
July 2, 2006 Our transit from Puerto Escondido to the south anchorage of San Juanico was pleasant. We arrived with fully charged batteries and a cold refrigerator (which means we had to motor sail). Refrigeration is becoming a challenge. The hot weather, the very warm seawater plus running the engine forces the system to work very hard. The cabin temperature is still 99 degrees. Our fresh fruit is suffering from the heat too. It is just plain hot out here! We will see how the citrus fruit we wrapped in foil does. We are not peaking yet! There is a breeze tonight making it feel a bit cooler. July 3, 2006 Today we traveled from San Juanico to El Burro Cove, about 10 miles inside Bahia Concepcion. Are we fishing today, Of course we fished! However, when we did get a hook up we were very surprised to find not a fish but a giant red squid. It didn't stay on long. We really enjoyed watching the big squid follow our hooks and grab them from time to time. Whole groups of them would follow a single lure right up to the boat. While having calamari would be a wonderful addition to our supplies, we were not to keen on getting squid ink on the decks. Another "Booby" bird took our hook and it was secure in its beak. To our surprise other birds came to his rescue. They picked at the line our line with their beaks and before Ralph could free it cut our fishing line. Too bad for the Booby and too bad for us, we lost our best cedar plug lure!
Our friends from
Long Beach were here to welcome us, as soon as the anchor was set. Each
couple arrived at OCH in their own dinghy. We enjoyed the visit and a
swim in the very warm water. We all made plans to have
dinner on the beach at Bertha's. If you look at the picture below
Berths's is the 2nd building on the right After dinner
July 4, 2006 We are looking for shade! Before going to shore for the Forth of July festivities we took time to put up the green boat canopy, the one that makes OCH look like a covered wagon. Any shade is welcome in this heat. This was our first formal "Cruiser's Function” in Mexico. There are thirty-two anchored boats anchored in the cove and almost everyone attended. It was great fun to meet some of the people, we have been hearing on the ham radio nets over the last year. The company and the food were great. The watermelon we brought from Mazatlan was delicious and enjoyed most by those people who have been in this remote area of the "Sea" awhile. (Fruit is less available to boaters here than on the mainland.) Some folks just enjoyed visiting while others played Botchy Ball on the beach. Mid-day an “Ice Cream Truck” made a visit; which delighted most. The day ended with a surprisingly well-done private fireworks display.
July 5, 2006 We are still anchored in El Burro Cove, Concepcion Bay. The 92-degree water is just too inviting to pass up. Our swim was followed with lunch out and then a snorkeling trip. We saw lots tropical fish, scallops, clams and even game fish. This heat is making it difficult to balance the refrigeration and the electricity! The topic of the day among the boaters is electrical consumption, due to refrigeration. We are having to run our Honda generator 2 to 3 hours a day to keep up. We are go grateful for this purchase, because without it we would be running the main engine. That always increases the temperature in the cabin. July 6, 2006 We are still anchored in El Burro Bay, Bahia Concepcion. The bay is 21 miles long and ranges in width from 2 1/2 to 4 1/2 miles wide. Bahia Concepcion is referred to as a sea within a sea. Today we visited the little town of Mulege (moo-la-HAY), a cute little town with approximately 2610 people. This town has Baja's only river, Rio Santa Rosalia, running through it. The people there are very friendly and very helpful. All of our “land” activities start by dinghing to shore. El Burro anchorage is surf free (today) so we anchored the dinghy off shore and tied a stern line on the beach, as the pangas do. We then walked up to highway to hitch hike our way to Mulege. (Unless you have a car it’s the only way to get there by land.) With very little traffic it took awhile before a fellow cruiser, who was heading north to the US for the summer, picked us up. Our friends on Spirit joined us. Once in town we connected with three other families of cruisers. While in Mulege we arranged an inland tour of ancient cave paintings and pictographs. Taxi service is available from Mulege for the eighteen-mile trip back to El Burro cove (so we did not have to hitch hike). A single taxi brought all ten of us, with our purchases back to El Burro Cove. The fare, 70 pesos (about $7.00 US) per couple. This stretch of highway provides a good view of the Baja's largest forest of cordon cactus. The four and five hundred-year-old cacti appear to be growing in red pumice providing beautiful contrast. July 8, 2006 Today, at 0700, twelve other boaters joined us on the beach to meet our guide Salvador for our inland tour. The cost, three hundred fifty pesos per person, and the tour was even better than we expected. First we stopped at a government office in Mulege to signed their official book, present picture ID and pay our fees. A thirty peso fee per camera allowed us to photograph the cave paintings and pictographs we were about to see.
We then stocked up
on water and cold beverages. Now we were on our way to visit an orchard. One
family, with many branches,
The third stop was
out in the desert, where Salvador told us the Cordon cacti we have been
seeing are up to 500 years old. He showed us which cactus
heals an infection, which is used to stop bleeding and which plant would
cure kidney stones. Next we stopped at the Ranch”. It is seven thousand hectors in size with fresh water springs making it ideal for raising cattle. Beautiful mountains surround the ranch making it truly a spectacular site. We were told it extended as far as the eye could see in every direction. The cave paintings are located on this ranch, about a twenty-minute walk from the ranch house. After hiking up a dry riverbed we found the paintings on the cave wall. There are two sets of paintings. The most recent of the paintings date back to 3000 BC. Salvador told us the Indians who painted these most likely came across the land bridge from Asia to Alaska eventually working their way down the North American coast to the Baja. Salvador told us little is known of the first group of painters, not even when they arrived or what happened to them.
Back at the ranch
we enjoyed a home cooked Mexican meal. Salvador had cooked the beans
himself. The woman at the ranch re-fried the beans and prepared the
rest of our meal .
Our fourth stop was a flat dry riverbed with boulders of all shapes and sizes scattered randomly above it. Many of the boulders had pictographs. The carvings, and some paintings, were of turtles, whales, fish, rays and even shaman. It is amazing to see this ancient artwork still in place. Close to Mulege we stop was at Mission Santa Rosalia de Mulege, built in 1705. From the church grounds we had a view of Rio Santa Rosalia flowing through Mulege. Salvador told us the story of how the woman, Rosalia, never married, devoted her life to the word of God and died under a rock in a cave high above the city. Her body is said to have decayed and the water that trickled down from her resting place was capable of healing the sick.
July 9, 2006 We have been here in El Burro Cove almost a week. It is just pain HOT. The cabin temperature is staying at 100 degrees well into the night. This heat is slowing us down! On the bright side, we are no longer using the hot water heater. This area is filled with small islands providing lots of underwater walls, nooks and crannies. Today we chose Coyote Island as the dive site. Once near the island we dropped the anchor and set out underwater. The first order of business is always to check the dinghy anchor. We turned it over, dug the flukes into the sand and placed a big stone on top to hold it securely. The visibility is good today. We both enjoy the exploring and Ralph really enjoys the hunting. Being able to refill our own dive tanks gives us unlimited access to this sport. Tonight we joined friends in our first “Noodle Party”. It’s not what you are thinking! It's named after the round foam noodle, the kind you see in a swimming pool. Our party took place behind a cliff that shaded us from the setting sun. Everyone dinghied over, and jumped into the water to float on what ever they had available. Some boaters actually have Noodles and the rest of us floated on what ever we had. We used our life cushions. The very experienced noodlers were able sit on their noodle while resting a drink on top of the end sticking up in front of them. Next time I will take my fins, I almost didn’t get back into the dinghy! July 10, 2006 Southeast winds kept us here in El Burro Cove for another day. Most of the day was spent relaxation and reading. Ralph was able to repair Glenda’s BCD (the buoyancy control device used for diving) and tended to the usual charging. Except for the Honda 2000 being temperamental it would have been a very relaxed day for both of us. It’s Monday again so again we tried Bertha’s “Monday Night Special”. The seafood and beef brochette only took an hour and a half tonight, just half the time it took last week. July 11, 2006 Surprise! We are anchored in Santo Domingo, very near the entrance on the north end of Bahia Concepcion. It was a 9.8-mile day of travel. We are anchored in beautiful deep Turquoise water with a backdrop of a desert mountain. Several boats belonging to our friends are anchored near us. It is very pleasant here. There is a breeze out here near the entrance but it’s still ninety-six degrees in the cabin. It smells like it could rain and there are black clouds to the South of us. Maybe that will cool us off. After dinner we will go to shore, as a group. We plan to explore the beach and swim. July 12, 2006 Still anchored in Santo Domingo with only seventeen feet of clear water beneath the boat. We can see the chain an anchor very well. OCH is sitting right over the anchor while the 120 feet of chain snakes out, back and the around us. If we get any wind at all the chain will straighten out. Swarms of bees can be a problem in this area. They are attracted to fresh water. Because there was a heavy dew last night, first chore this morning was to wipe down the topside of OCH, removing the fresh water. It’s laundry day and I washed our sheets with saltwater and ammonia to avoid a bee invasion. The sheets seem clean enough, tonight we will find out how they feel!
We went ashore with Gordon and Susie of Spirit today. We spent hours gathering shells, free diving for fish and just playing in the water. The water here is just a bit cooler than the 92 degrees in El Burro and actually feels quite refreshing. You should see the beautiful little shell we found. They look like thin iridescent potato chips. They are very fragile. July 13, 2006 It was a nine-hour trip from Santo Domingo to La Ramada Cove, just north of Punta San Basilio where we are anchored this evening. We are the only boat anchored in this beautiful little cove. We went out of our way to go behind Isla San Ildefonso in hopes of catching fish. We weren't lucky but we did see a large fishing boat anchored near the island and several pangas working the water. The fishermen are friendly, hard working men. We were disappointed not to catch fish but delighted to encounter two different pods of pilot whales. One pod came within just feet of the OCH and one whale surface within a couple feet of our stern. Awesome!!! The large school of dolphin we encountered was busy feeding to pay attention to us. As we approached the anchorage today the mainsail refused to come down. Have we ever mentioned how much we hate to go up the mast with the mainsail up? It rates right up there with a root cannel. Thanks to Ralph, the problem was diagnosed and corrected from the deck. The toping lift tension was off and it had wrapped around the main halyard. Once anchored Glenda jumped into the 85-degree water for a swim. The anchor was set perfectly and the chain was in a straight line on a flat sandy bottom. The calm water made exploring the coves many fish and urchins very comfortable. Little did we know that this peaceful little anchorage was going to be turned into a torrent. By two-thirty in the morning a wind called a “Chabasco” came up. Within minutes the wind was over 45 knots, we were in the midst’s a full fledge thunderstorm. Lightning flashes were very close. The surf was breaking close behind us. We started the engine and prepared to leave the anchorage. Ralph, on the foredeck was being drenched by waves breaking over the bow while Glenda manned the helm. This would be the time the electronic navigation equipment chose not to work! Thankfully we have “hands free” headsets; they allowed us to communicate even though the noise of the thunderstorm. We spent the rest of the night motoring away from shore giving ourselves seaway. July 14, 2006 At 0800, we are safely anchored in the north end of Bahia San Juanico, just around the rock point that separates it from La Ramada. After last night’s adventure we are very happy to have the hook set so we can get some rest. Except for a couple dozen broken eggs and a little saltwater below all is well! July 15, 2006 While traveling today Glenda did the laundry. The breeze and warm temperatures make for fast drying. Our plan was to stop and enjoy a few days in Puerto Balandara but friends there reported, via VHF radio, that several “mega yachts” are anchored and that the bees were swarming. Rays jumping out of the water and flipping over entertained us. We saw one do a double flip above the water. There were sharks too, when we first saw the fins they looked like dolphin, but the movement was wrong…they were sharks! We arrived back in Puerto Escondido late in the afternoon. July 16, 2006
We are now hooked
to a mooring ball in Puerto Escondido. We found the staff very
helpful and most welcoming when we went to the office for our check in
and to report the mooring number that we had tied up for our stay. The only docks inside the port
is for fueling and government use.
It’s getting cooler! It’s just ninety-four degrees in the cabin with humidity of sixty-five percent. It’s Sunday, the morning the cruisers meet for a potluck brunch. It was a good chance to meet some of the other cruisers. We had a little outing with three other couples later today. We walked about a mile up the road to a small resort located above the harbor. It has a small grocery store, a pool and a restaurant. We all enjoyed a swim in a fresh water pool followed by a late dinner out.
July 18, 2006 We are still in Puerto Escondido. It’s a bit warmer today it’s 98 degrees in the cabin. Sleeping is difficult. The hammock on deck was the coolest place we could find to spend the night. Today we caught a ride into Loreto with a “local boater”. Buying lunch and paying for gas was way less than the $65.00 (US) for a cab ride. It was fun to see Loreto. We purchased a few eggs (that we carried back in loose in a plastic bag) and some yummy mango jam, more like mango butter, that we carried back in a paper cup covered with plastic wrap. The trip back gave us a great view of one of the most beautiful sections of the Baja’s Coastline. July 19, 2006 It is still very hot! Even with shade cover up it is ninety-nine degrees in the cabin.
Doing business out
here is difficult. To send a fax today we walked a mile in this heat to
the small resort and paid $8.00 (US) per page. One trip was not bad
enough but
While out today we saw a mega yacht, tied to the dock that is on the outside of the harbor taking on fuel. Two huge tanker trucks came and spent the entire day off loading their fuel into the yacht. $$$$, Makes us glad we have sail power. It was boat work today too. Jumping into the water, scuba gear and all, was very refreshing. Sea life grows very fast in this warm climate! It was especially difficult today, we each used a full tank of air. OCH has a very clean bottom! At times like these we do wonder if cruising is too much work for retired folks.
July 20, 2006 We are anchored just around the corner from Puerto Escondido in the open roadstead of Bahia Juncalito. Friends on sailing vessel “Hop Along” and s/v “Calafia” are here with us, all anchored in one of the beautiful little coves we saw from the car a few days ago.
We could not
depart Puerto Escondido without dealing with yet one more fax and taking
on fuel for the trip down to La Paz so we were very late in leaving.
Fuel dock space is limited therefore fuel is sold by appointment only. When we arrived at our appointed time there was a small fishing boat tied to the dock. With much effort we were able to tie up stern to stern with the fishing boat. We think the fishing boat bribed the attendant with a delicious Dorodo to get our spot. Long story made short, we believe that the attendant felt bad and we ended up with the Dorodo which we were able to share with others.
July 21, 2006 It was a twenty-six mile motor sail over flat seas to Bahia Agua Verde. The water was so still we could see the movement of the baitfish as they swam near the surface. Bahia Agua Verde was our starting point on the Baja so everything from here south will be new to us.
Once securely
anchored we went with our friends on Guenevere into town. “Town”
consists of a few modest homes. One of which houses a small store,
another is a tortillaria
When we returned to the boat we got out our gear and jumped into the dingy and explored the reef near the anchorage. Swimming the east cost of the Baja is a lot like swimming in and aquarium. There are lots of fish; some game fish, shellfish and small reef fish. They can be so beautiful with iridescent colors reflected in the sunlight. Tonight was movie night on s/v Migration. They invited everyone in the anchorage over for potluck desert and a movie. The movie was shown on a large white canvas on deck. We were joined by a Mexican couple who came by in their panga. They came on board as though they were invited. "Casa Blanca", in English, must have been boring as they left midway through the movie. The rest of us left shortly before it was over too because the wind piped up. Not knowing how much stronger the wind would become we though it better to head back to our respective boats. We pulled the motor off the dinghy and secured the dinghy behind OCH for the night. With luck we will not have to pull anchor tonight. July 21, 2006 OCH is till anchored in Agua Verde. The cabin temperature is 98 degrees with humidity of 65 percent. At least there was an afternoon breeze to cool it down a bit. Sleeping in the hammock on deck last night even felt cool for a couple of hours. We were reading and relaxing when our friends on s/v Califia and their grandsons came by to invite us to snorkel. Our single handing friend, Stephen, joined us and we all enjoyed the underwater adventure together. As for our food supply, it is holding up very well. We made three quarts of fresh yogurt today. With this warm weather it can be made right up on deck, no yogurt machine required. It’s great in those morning smoothies. This Baha coast is truly magical. Last night we watched as the red mountains behind us turn even a deeper shade of red as the sun was setting. The beauty is a constant amazement to us. July 23, 2006
We are still
anchored in beautiful Agua Verde. The cabin temperature is STILL 98
degrees with humidity of only 65 percent. The evening was cooler, cool
enough in the hammock Today we snorkeled around Roca Solitaria with our friends with our friends on s/v Guenevere and s/v Ky-Mani. This is a great place to see game fish, reef fish, lobster and even scallops. We are running low on the tropical flavored powdered drink mix, C-Lite, that we enjoy so much. And the short 30 amp power cord we use with the Honda 2000 bit the dust today. Other than that all is well on OCH. Our conversations are including the up coming trip to the US. It won’t be too much longer and we will be in La Paz getting OCH ready leave for the hurricane season while we travel by land. July 24, 2006 Still anchored in Agua Verde. It is so hot that we can not touch the wooden decks or fiberglass cabin roof with bare feet. With the wind blowing just under 20 knots it is actually feels comfortable. A tropical depression is headed this way. It is expected to pass on the outside of the Baja. We have tracked it for several days and will decide soon to either stay here or head back into Puerto Escondido just five hours north of us. We are busy clearing our decks of anything that can go below to reduce wind resistance. Once this tropical depression passes we will start working our way south to La Paz. July 25, 2006 Our 5th day anchored in Bahia Agua Verde. Last night four large power yachts and one additional sailboat joined us in the anchorage. We are really feeling the “cooling effects” of now Tropical Storm, Emilia. She is working her way up the outside of the Baja. With the cloud cover and wind the cabin temperature is down to 85 degrees with humidity of 72 percent. The light rain we had today is the first on OCH in a year and a half. We may get some “REAL RAIN” within the next twenty-four hours. Our rigging could sure use it! Our decision to stay here in Agua Verde rather to go into Puerto Escondido was made for a couple of reasons. We have very good, relatively new, well-maintained heavy ground tackle; all chain connected to a well dug in eighty-eight pound Delta anchor and there is protection from the direction of the prevailing winds. This just seems safer to us. With the change in the weather we are voluntarily boat bound. We are just reading, relaxing and watching the weather. The food is holding up well even though we are now down to canned fruit. Ye, we miss that lovely fresh fruit we have been enjoying! Thank goodness for the Ham radio. We are able to hear where our friends are and how they are doing. So far no one is suffering from the approaching storm. July 26, 2006 Still securely anchored in Agua Verde. The cabin is down to a chilly 81 degrees this morning with humidity of 71 percent. We are happy to report Tropical Storm Emilia has passed us 110 miles to the northwest. We were very lucky not to encounter more wind than we did. Except for the occasional strong gusts the winds have been quite light. We are surprised by how little rain we got her. July 27, 2006 We woke up to a cool 78 degrees in the cabin this morning.
With the ocean
starting to lie down most of our friends have The
water temperature is down to 72 degrees (that’s 20 degrees less than the
water temperature in El Burro cove a few weeks ago).
Great news on the ham radio today! All of our friends, who might have been in harms way during the storm, are safe. July 28, 2006
After a pleasant
day of motor sailing we are anchored in the south lobe of Bahia San
Evaristo about fifty miles north of La Paz. It’s 89 degrees in the
cabin.
This part of the Baja is new to us and it’s absolutely breath taking. The shapes and colors make this stretch of the Baja coastline truly magnificent. This feels much like being in a fairyland. Pictures will never do it justice. A huge tuna surprised Ralph today and released it’s self before he could grab the pole. Shortly after a school of Dorado, hundreds of them, swarmed around the boat. Ralph had no trouble landing one of them.
July 29, 2006 Continuing south today we arrived at Bahia Ensenada Grande on Isla Partita located just twenty-five miles north of La Paz. The sea was very lumpy today. The waves were only three or four feet high but were very close together (one to three seconds) and right on the nose. OCH was happy for the free wash job! Along the way our views of the Baja to the west and the islands to the east were breath taking. The sun shinning directly on them enhanced the beautiful colors and patterns in the Baja’s mountains extending down to the sea.
Our excitement
Later after watching the end of Casa Blanca on Liberty Call II we saw an amazing sight as we dinghied back to OCH. The water was filled with phosphoresce. Very small sea life in the water looked like bright stars. The larger fish darting away from our approaching dinghy left hundreds of bright trails in their wake. It was absolutely beautiful!
July 30, 2006 Another day of bashing into short choppy seas we are in La Paz. Our friends, Gordon and Susie, on s/v Spirit were here to direct us into Marina de La Paz and to take our dock lines. It was very nice to see them and a bit sad to be docking OCH after such a fun summer adventure. Our next project will be to prepare her for the hurricane season. We won’t start that until we have explored La Paz by foot and located the Ice cream shop.
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